I visited several remote atolls in the South Pacific comprising the Marshall Islands. My first stop was Kili Island—so small that the airstrip ran from end to end and took up half the island! Just a few feet away from the plane was a short drop to large volcanic rocks and splashing waves. The people were very friendly and smiled a lot. This airport (and all others) had old women assisted by children showing beautiful crafts for sale. Bring lots of US currency because these handicrafts are absolutely stunning! We switched to a smaller plane for Majuro.
These islands have excellent diving spots and hotels offer great dive-tour packages and other activities. All you need are bathing suits, tevas, and shorts. Leave your heels and suits at home! In Majuro, our tour guide showed us old buildings with faded, peeling paint and World War II relics. He told stories of chiefs and princesses and explorers who left their marks on the island. Majuro is laid back, breezy, and rustic. The next stop is Kwajalein and then Rongelap.
The entire
island of Kwajalein is federal
territory run by the military. The Marshallese live there but everything is
strictly regulated by the United States. We were not allowed to disembark. Through
my window I could see edges of the tarmac lined with beautiful coconut trees. Our
flight attendant talked about Bikini
Atoll where nuclear testing was done and other stories about growing up in
the Marshall Islands. After gassing up we headed for Rongelap to switch to a DC-10. Rongelap was like Kili Island and
not as “westernized” as Majuro. I watched the sun set as we took off for Hawai’i. I took the island-hopping
route because it was the cheapest route to Hawai’i and I have no regrets!
To see a
map of the South Pacific region I visited, go to http://www.mapsouthpacific.com/micronesia/index.html
I really wish I had more to post than "I'm jealous!", but I have nothing to compare with that, really. This sounds amazing. I would like to be able to travel more internationally and especially "off the beaten path". When I do travel, I tend to stick to more locally recognized hotspots as opposed to the more touristy spots so everything you have to say here is especially interesting to me. I'd like to hear more about where you have been and if/when I do get to the South Pacific where else should I go?
ReplyDeleteHi Forrest, I have to say that I enjoy the boldness of your blogs! Thanks for your kind words!!
DeleteHi Myra,
ReplyDeleteI really enjoyed reading your post! I think that many people don't realize that their are so many different islands throughout Micronesia and Polynesia. Many people are familiar with Hawaii and Tahiti and more commercialized places, but I'm sure islands like Majuro and Kwajelin are amazing. I would probably like them even more because their would be less tourist around. Great post Myra.
I liked the adventure, but honestly, I've become so used to the urban life that I can't imagine myself living in such a remote place. I've always wanted to sail around the world for months--that would be quite an adventure!
DeleteIt sounds like you enjoyed your trip, and it is a place that most people never see. I am curious though, did you find that the domination of the islands by the US military soiled your experience at all? I often hear from friends in the Navy and other branches of their travels around the world and from what they describe, I feel like they are not truly experiencing a foreign country half the time due to the domination by US military and culture in the areas they have visited. I tend to prefer unaltered culture, but then again I do not have much to go on. What do you think?
ReplyDeleteNot being able to depart Kwajelein was a little disturbing. As an American, I have never had my own freedom of will challenged like that and especially by Americans albeit the US military. This was in the 1980s. In 2006 while in Hawai’i, a pregnant Marshallese princess went into labor (5 or 6 months pregnant) on her way to the mainland with her American husband, and gave birth to a preemie. They were housed at Ronald McDonald House while the baby was on life support and I had the chance to talk to this Marshallese princess and her family. The Marshallese are given a stipend and have become totally dependent on the US Government for everything. They still practice their customs and traditions; they are farmers and fishermen but beyond that, they are incapable of managing themselves. The military has recognized the tribes and the chiefs that live there and have respect for them. But they are restricted from certain areas and beaches and this has saddened the people especially the elders who have survived the war.
ReplyDelete